FLORES, IN WHICH I SEE A MANTA RAY!!!

On to the last blog for Indonesia! But first, two important episodes from the Togean Islands that I forgot to write about. Nicole has already admonished me for not writing in a more timely manner and forgetting to write about important things. Well, one thing I forgot to include, the other I left out on purpose in order to publish the blog on time before we left for our night bus from Bangkok to Chiang Mai.

The one that I actually forgot to mention was the dolphin-spotting we enjoyed two days in a row while on our snorkeling trips. After we were done for the day and headed back to Poya Lisa on our first day out, our boat driver (the older gentleman least with a weather-beaten face as if he's lived most of his life at sea, which he probably has,) started to make a weird, arching U-turn, which confused us all. What was he doing? He couldn't possibly be lost, or mixed up, could he? No, not at all. It turned out he just had better eyes than all of us and had seen dolphins jumping in the distance. He killed the motor and we watched for a while. These dolphins were the most amazing show-offs. They would not just jump in the air, but do about three complete flips before diving under the water again. They were true acrobats. It was almost as if they were trying to put on a show. The next day we saw more, though they couldn't quite outdo the spectacle of the day before. After that we'd get excited if we thought we saw a dolphin while on the boat but it almost always turned out to be a floating coconut instead.

The second thing I left out was the strange incident of me stepping on some weird, unidentified, venomous thing that left the end of my toe black for weeks afterward. On our last day at Poya Lisa, I decided to go snorkeling around our little island, as I hasn't done so yet. As I was wading out from our bungalow, mask and snorkel in hand, I stopped to look at an oddly coloured, spiked thing in the water. Some sort of odd starfish or plant or sea creature perhaps? As I stood there, putting of my mask for a better look, I felt a painfully sharp sting on my toe. For a brief moment I considered ignoring it and swimming on but the pain was growing exponentially. With my mask on, I examined my toe in the water and saw a pinprick sized wound that oozed blood when I squeezed it. Within moments the pain had become unbearable and I literally hobbled to shore in agony. Nicole helped me out immediately, getting soap and water to wash it while I squeezed my foot and compulsively rocked back and forth to deal with the pain. The pain was intense, maybe 5 or 10 times worse than a wasp sting, and I might have even cried if I wasn't so shaky. I alternated soaking my foot in cold water and applying pressure and rocking to deal with the shock and pain. (Now I know that if you get a poisonous sting, you are supposed to soak it in the hottest water you can stand. Oh well. It's not like we had hot water anyway.) The sting - whatever it was - was on the fourth digit ("ring toe?") of my right foot. Pretty soon the toe started to swell up and the end of the toe, where I had been stung, started to become discoloured. Well, sh*t. (Now that I know my grandmother is an avid reader of this blog, I don't think I can swear anymore. Only quasi-swearing will be allowed.)

With Nicole's help, I hobbled across the island and up the stairs for dinner where the nice kitchen staff got me ice cold water to soak my foot in, which really helped with the pain. Two young women who had arrived recently at Poya Lisa were doctors from Slovenia, currently doing their residencies. They had been swimming at the same time I went in and had seen me get out of the water. They came over and began to examine my toe with all manner of medical authority as soon as I told them what happened. They decided it would be okay, since the swelling and discolouration seemed localised, and gave me some anti-histamine medication. And it was okay in the end... but it was weird. My toe stayed swollen for over a week and just before the swelling went down, the right side of my right foot also became swollen. I felt tinglies up and down my leg (real or imagined, I don't know) and it was at that time I decided if my leg began to swell I would book myself the first flight to Singapore. The anxiety was for naught, however, because the swelling went down. The tip of the toe, however, turned black and became hard. I thought was a blood blister and tried to pop it at one point, but nothing came out. Eventually the blackened skin came off, rather in the manner of a scab, about three weeks later. It was just a thick layer of hardened, blackened skin, and now new, regular skin is growing in its place. So weird, right? I panickedly looked up everything about poisonous stings while the swelling was still going on. I still think there might be a slight chance it was a stonefish sting. Those can be fatal if you get a puncture wound to the chest or abdomen. Would a pinprick wound on the tip of your toe make it swell up for a week and kill the skin around it? I don't really know. I wonder now if that odd looking sea-creature I originally wanted to examine was a stonefish. Maybe I couldn't see how close I actually was to it. Or perhaps it was something else that sent a stinger out my way. In any case, I think I'm lucky. I mean, it hurt like a bitch (sorry Grandma) but just imagine if I had stepped on that thing?

That last night wasn't all pain and misery. After soaking my foot in the icy water, the pain went down and I talked with some of the other guests after dinner while Nicole joined Max, Karlyn, Roberto, Tom and a new Danish girl in some games of cards. It was the only mar on an otherwise perfectly lovely week. As you might be starting to understand, it's been a string of injuries and lesser ouchies. Usually by the time one heals, I get a new one. Fortunately, none of it has actually stopped me from getting around.

After leaving Poya Lisa, we had a crazy 24-hour travel blitz (as previously mentioned in the last blog.) We waited in Ampana at the cottages we had previously stayed at until 4 PM. We had been told that we'd get picked up at 5, but you know, Ramadhan, so... nothing you're told is reliable. And of course, our old travel-agent buddy (whose name I just can't remember) didn't tell us this until 4 PM when the van rolled in. It was not a good journey. We know better than to expect to actually get going when you're picked up, but we weren't in the mood to deal with it. First they drove us to their headquarters and switched drivers, then we picked up several more people from their homes around town, then we pulled into the gas station, with about 50 other vehicles queued up. They never, ever, ever, fuel the van before they pick you up. This seems to be some sort of unwritten law. And people were just being jerks. They stared at us through the windows, obnoxiously tried to get our attention, and a person or two even reached through the open window to try to touch my arm. It's not the first time or last time that would happen to me (Ooh! I touched a white person! How exotic!) but it really pissed me off at that point in time. DO. NOT. TOUCH. ME. (I was just discussing this with Nicole today. Not this particular incident, but just throwing the theory out there that empathy - in so far as putting yourself in someone else's shoes - doesn't seemed to be practiced or valued in Southeast Asia the way it is at home. If that's true, and I think it might be, it would go a long way to explaining some peoples' behaviour.) 

Once we were on the road, it wasn't much better. The driver was a real J.A. (an acronym for a disagreeable old donkey that I learned via Grandpa Bergantine.) He tail-gated at dangerous speeds and sometime around or after midnight stopped for a 20 minute break, solely for himself. I understand if he needed a bathroom break, but that should only take 5 minutes. Instead he was lounging with a coffee on a little bed at a roadside stop, because, well, he felt like it. Which is so discourteous when people are relying on you to get them to the airport on time. He was rude and brushed us off and was very arrogant in all he did. We slept a little bit on the way to the airport, and when I woke up in the morning, I found our driver in the back seat, smoking and coughing, if I recall right, while his buddy drove instead. I don't need everything spic-and-span and to-the-second punctual, but I do appreciate a smithereen of professionalism. This guy just didn't care.

But we did arrive on time at the Poso airport. We had an early morning flight to Makassar, flew from Makassar to Denpasar, Bali, and finally from Denpasar to Labanbajo, Flores. For the flight to Flores we were once again on a little, propeller-winged airplane, the type that only lets your board from the rear, because the cargo goes in the front. 

Labanbajo is still up and coming I think. There's a healthy, thriving dive-culture there, with dive shop after dive shop lining the main drag of town. There's also a healthy slew of restaurants, cafes and hotels catering to tourists. But the town itself is really small. I was expecting something more like a small city, but "town" is probably a more accurate word. The airport too is a recent change. As in, there is one now. When Nicole visited last year, there was a crappy little building for an airport, quite small and rinky-dink. Now there's a shiny new airport that looks great, but is still mostly empty. Nicole was really shocked when we disembarked and the new airport greeted us.

That night we were able to meet up with Lynsey and Kristina, because our paths crossed at that time by luck. We met up for dinner and swapped stories, laughed a lot, and showed off all our "injuries and lesser ouchies," each one with an interesting accompanying story, of course. It turned out they had just gotten done with a budget liveaboard in the area (yes, such things exist!)

The next morning we got on a boat with a handful of other tourists to a private resort island called Kanawa. Nicole, Lynsey and Kristina had all stayed here the previous Lebaran break (when I was in Gili Air and Lombok with Aasha.) They loved it so much they were all eager to return. By describing it as a "private resort island" you are probably imagining something really grand and expensive, sparkling white with a tiled pool and fresh fruit on silver platters. Instead, it is a private island, but it has three types of accommodation: tents, bales (like a bungalow the size of a king-sized bed, with a roof, roll-up sides, a mattress, mosquito net, and hanging storage cubbies) and the regular bungalows. Nicole and I had a bale, Lynsey and Kristina had a tent. The meals were a bit pricier than local eats, but if you stuck to the Indonesian menu, it was all right. One of the best features of the island was a small, sheltered area over the water with hammocks strung from the beams. Most all of our free time was spent here. (Another interesting tid-bit about the island is that it hosts refugee goats who have been delivered from the now-extinct practice of goat-feeding-time on the islands with Komodo dragons. They live on the hillside there.)

Nicole, Kristina and Lynsey had a lot more free time than I did. Since they had been there already, they were content to just relax. We had two full days, plus half a day on the day we arrived. I had plenty of hammock time on our arrival day, but after that I used my time for excursions. The first full day I went on three dives with a company called Ora Dive. I had foolishly neglected to follow up with Kanawa's dive situation. They used to have a very popular dive shop, but the contract was recently terminated. When I contacted them, it was still up in the air, but I felt like it was bound to be renewed once enough money had passed hands. Alas, such was not the case. Just before we left Labanbajo, I went to some dive shops to see if they would pick me up at Kanawa for some diving, but most seemed reluctant. One French family who was headed to the island with us had already booked with Ora, however, and I was able to quickly get in on the dive with them for that day.

The dives with absolutely AMAZING! Besides Raja Amapat, they were the best dives I've ever done. I am spoiled, I know. I've only done 15 dives in my life, but they've been in some truly spectacular spots and I just don't know if I'm ever going to find anything that compares. If I had my travel journal or dive book at my side, I could write down more accurately all the things I saw, but I do remember some particularly cool ones. On the first dive we saw about ten reef sharks, the closest just chilling out a few mere meters away! I also saw a decent-sized ray. On the second dive we saw pygmy seahorses and giant trevally. At one point we found ourselves in a little trench and when you looked up, there were tons of giant, gleaming, silver fish. The underwater scenery and sea life combined to make a beautiful and stunning picture. Over that trench the current was quite strong and when we descended we had to grip rocks with our fingers just to hold on. I wasn't sure why we were stopping and looked at the divemaster a few times to try to figure it out. He pointed and I looked and all of a sudden, out of the blue, there it was! A manta ray! It was really majestic. It had a black top and white belly and was just hanging out in the current, maybe getting itself clean or filtering for food. It's gigantic fins (I'd call them wings because they look more like that) undulated slowly in the current and gave the impression of some big bird of prey, gliding on the wind. That's what really took my breath away (which wasn't good, given that I was breathing with a regulator; I coughed and spluttered a bit): it's resemblance to a beautiful bird of prey took me aback. It didn't flutter like a fish, it just glided and imposed its beauty and grace. We were lucky to see it too, because just the day before they had been to the same spot and hadn't seen any mantas.

The third dive turned up a big variety of different sea creatures: lionfish, scorpionfish, an octopus, sweetlips, reef sharks, and (spotted by me!) a crocodile fish. The crocodile fish was very ugly and excellently camouflaged. I only saw it because it moved, then settled motionless on the floor.

The diving was excellent and I also enjoyed getting to know the French family and an American father and son who were my dive buddies for the day. The crew was also fun. Our divemaster, Yadi (who was my same age), insisted we take selfies during our break time on the beach. The French family had their youngest child along, a boy of about 12. He did short, shallow, one-on-one dives while we went deeper, as he didn't have any real training. I got to practice my French with the whole family too, which was nice.

The next day was my Komodo dragon excursion! I signed up with other guests from Kanawa, including a Belgian family and a Canadian family living in Jakarta. We visited Rinca Island, since there's a better chance of seeing them there than Komodo Island. We were lucky to see four dragons. One was a juvenile walking along at a distance as we entered the park. We also saw a big, fat female lounging by the ranger's station before starting on our hike, a juvenile climbing a stream bank during our hike, and a big, fat male lounging under a tree back by the headquarters when we finished. The adults are really big and fat. They just look so huge, like obese

dinosaurs. Lying flat on the ground, they look like they don't have any muscle tone, they're just huge reptilian blogs with crazy feet and claws. Walking, however, it's a different story. You have to keep quite a distance from them as their bite can kill you if you're not treated immediately. The plethora bacteria in their mouths is ultimately what kills you (or the buffalo they hunt.) Did you know they also eat their newborn babies? As a defense mechanism, baby komodos spend the first three years of their lives in trees. What brutes! The other interesting thing about the hike was the landscape: dry and beautiful, and not really what I had been expecting.

I went on the hike with the Belgian family. Unfortunately, the guides were not too generous towards us. They have a rule that there must be one guide for every five people. The Belgian family were five, and I made six. We tried to reason that since we were just one, small group, one guide would be fine. Of course, they didn't listen. If they have a stated rule, I guess I can understand they don't have to budge on it. But the thing was that they only gave us one guide! Everyone else was busy, so we just had one. That guide said we could wait around for another guide to finish a tour and join us, but it really wasn't necessary, so we said no. I tried to get my money back at the end (because I paid eight dollars for a non-existent guide) but you can guess how that went. They were very brusque with me, which I didn't appreciate. In the end they told me our guide would get paid double, so I said ok, because I knew it was a lost battle, but I wonder if that's even true. This on top of entrance fees, camera fees, and a snorkeling fee (which I simply should not have paid, as they have no way to enforce it.) Each fee is easily three times greater for a foreigner than a local. I paid over $25 in fees that day! If I thought that any of it was going to the preservation of the Komodos, I might not mind, but I have absolutely no faith in that. I know where my $25 went - straight into some ranger or bureaucrat's pocket. I apologise if the culture of corruption has made my cynical, but... I'm also not all that sorry. Get ripped off, cheated out of my fee, and pay for somebody's wife to go shopping in Jakarta? No thanks.

Despite the bad deal with the park fees, it was still worth it just for a chance to see those great, lumbering, terrifying, fat creatures in the wild. I really hate the way they move; I find it very creepy they way they lumber in that reptilian way. Still... what an awesome experience!

We left Rinca, did a bit of snorkeling, and then headed to a fishing village on a little island halfway between Rinca and Kanawa. The local kids flooded us like we were minor celebrities. I think they just find it fun to hang on to tourists and show them around, but they also ask you for things. Like in Toraja, the kids want candy or pens. I literally had nothing to give them, so I didn't. A girl wanted my hair tie, but I said no. She insisted. I insisted. They don't have a right to the things off my person and I feel it's a slippery slope to give the kids everything they ask for, cute as they may be, and as poor as their families are. What I did do was walk around with a gaggle of giggling girls who delighted in showing me around. As often happens, they told me they liked my white skin and that they were jealous. As usual, I told them, no, you're skin is beautiful, I like it, I'll swap with you. It was then that I coined the phrase, "coklat cantik". In my limited Indonesian, this phrase is about the best that I can come up with. It means "beautiful brown" and I used to try to convince the girls they don't need white skin. Because that's also a slippery slope, and too many women I meet in Asia already think that brown is ugly and white is ideal. (Part of this comes from the fact that if you are poor, you probably have to work outside, hence a darker shade of skin.) The whole thing upsets me, so I wish I would have come up with "coklat cantik" sooner. It has an alliterative sound in Indonesian because the c's both make a "ch" sound.

The cutest little girl was named Ranila, who had a terrific, light-up-

the-room smile. She was small, so I carried her part of the way as we made a circuit around the village. We snapped a photo before getting on the boat, and we both have on beaming smiles. Those kids just went wild as our boat both arrived and left. You'd think the circus had come to town. Perhaps we crazy tourists are like the circus.

We headed back to Labanbajo the next day. Lynsey and Kristina got on a Pelni cruise-liner: an experience that's whole new level of insane pandemonium, even by Indonesian standards. I knew that the Pelni would be chaotic, but I got to see it first hand, at a distance, from the porch of our hotel room that evening. I smiled to myself and was glad I wasn't there.

I will try to make the next part short. (Because this blog is getting long, and I'm paying for my time here at this internet cafe.) Nicole and left the next afternoon for Bali and made our way south from Denpasar to Bingin beach. For two days we relaxed, read books, lied in the sun, occasionally threw ourselves into the ocean, and happily ate lots of Western food. Oh, the food! To quote my Facebook status at the time: "I have come to appreciate the fish / rice / vegetable regime of Raja Ampat, Maluku, and Sulawesi. I have. But being in Bali now has been a real culinary treat: BLT on a baguette, black bean burrito, yogurt with muesli and fruit... I have been eating like a queen these past 24 hours and I am savoring it, because who knows when I'll get it again. I love food." And that pretty much sums it up. We found a delicious, health-conscious, vegetarian-friendly, whole-foods-orientated place (Aunt Deb, you would have loved it!) called The Cashew Tree and we ate there for four meals during our short stay. We consumed all our Western favourites with delight, including some great chocolate cake. (Consequently, there were some mysterious rumblings in the digestive system later. What is this? Western food? Argh! I don't know how to deal with that anymore!)

A picture I really like from that time is one of me sipping a vodka

slushy and reading Comso magazine, because it's sort of the quintessential, south-Bali, touristy thing to do. I never read Comso and it was equal parts delight, horror, scorn, and hilarity. But, sometimes it's fun to read fluff, and heaven-knows the Bali scene was a fun change of pace. (Another thing I read was, "The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Nighttime." I'm a slow reader, but I finished it in two days. Great book - highly recommend it.)

The purpose of the short stint in Binging, Bali was to avoid the official Lebaran holiday, which can change based on the moon. We gave time for the official day to pass before we headed to Jakarta to take care of some banking business. Or so we thought. That's right: Indonesia had one last head-banging-against-the-wall bit of chaotic confusion to throw at us. Now, granted, the blame actually falls on us for being so stupid as to assume, even after two years, that things in Indonesia would be similar to how they are at home. The banks didn't just take the day off for the holiday, or even a couple of days (as we had allowed time for, hence lying low in Bali,) but were closed for the entire week. And we had money to withdraw! And a flight to catch before the banks reopened! Cue the panic. We found the best solution was to withdraw our daily limits from the ATM and Nicole will return later to wrap up the rest of the business for us. Not ideal, but it will work. Oh Indonesia, always throwing monkey wrenches. That's how it goes: over two years there and it's still sometimes a love-hate relationship. 

I loved our time in Bali, and Flores, and Sulawesi, and everywhere else. We met awesome people, did amazing things. And also were subject to several people trying to rip us off because of our skin colour. I just can't stand people trying to take advantage of you because of who you are. Even on our last day in Bali, our hotel called a cab for us and the man wanted the price that would normally be to hire a care and driver for a full day. He wanted 400,000 rupiah instead of the normal price of 160,000, which we had paid in a metered taxi when we arrived. We said "No, absolutely not. Give us the real price." He refused and drove away (what a waste to come all that way!) and we started walking. Within a minute we came across a metered taxi parked by the side of the road, with a very nice taxi driver who agreed to take us right away, even though we were headed to an area with heavy traffic. See what I mean? One minute, someone is ripping you off, the next, someone's helping you out.

In any case... Despite all this love-hate nonsense, it was sad to say goodbye to Indonesia. We chilled out in Jakarta for a few days (after the panic subsided) before leaving for Myanmar. By a very good stroke of luck, two of our friends and co-workers who renewed their contracts  let us stay in their apartment at our old apartment complex. One of them was still there, even though it was the holiday. It was easy to be back in a place so familiar. We could take care of our errands and go eat at our favourite places before we left. We also found there's a new self-service laundry place under our apartment building! Oh joy! (No, really. Wish that place had been there while we were still there.)

We left Jakarta the day our contract ended and returned six weeks later. I'm glad we went to as many places as we did though. I feel like I can really say I've experienced Indonesia. (Just hope I don't forget my Bahasa Indonesia vocabulary.) The whole thing was great, despite scratches and wounds on my legs, despite people trying to rip us off and pocket the profits, despite seasickness and sunburn. Because the good of it all, the beaches, the diving, the Torajan funeral rites, Matthew and Scott, the friends at Poya Lisa, the mantas, the komodos, the vodka slushies and Comso on the beach... all of it far outweighs anything bad.

I think I'm finally ready to move on to writing about Myanmar. (And about time too, seeing as I'm not even there anymore!) Myanmar was amazing, perhaps my favourite country I've been to in Asia. In fact, I think I can definitively, it is. Next up, I'll be writing about Yangon and our wet and misty visit to a giant golden rock.

SULAWESI (PART 4), IN WHICH WE DO NEXT TO NOTHING FOR ALMOST A WEEK

It's been another, wonderful relaxing day in Bangkok. A day that involved seeing a movie (22 Jump Street) with new hostel friends, a Japanese lunch and pad thai for dinner. I n Myanmar we were on the go most of the time, so it feels nice to pause and slow down for a couple days. Also, it gives me a chance to get some blogging in.

This is the last part of the fascinating four-part series on Sulawesi (which means I'm almost done writing about Indonesia.) Nicole and I split from Matthew and Scott on July 13, after our day in Tentena together. We left in a shared van headed to the town of Ampana while the guys got a bus to the town of Poso, from which they would get the first of many flights heading back to the US. Even though we had only been travelling together for two weeks, I felt like I had gotten to know them both pretty well and was sad to see them go (all the more so for Nicole.) The whole getting-to-know-you process moves along at a lightning speed when you travel with people, so I felt like I was saying goodbye to friends as well. It was certainly fun to travel with them for a while.

On our morning journey to Ampana  brought us over more of the same bumpy, potholed, washed-out, twisty turning, awful mountain roads (are you getting the idea I really didn't like going over these roads? Nicole tried sleeping in the backseat, only to be violently bounced out of her seat awake.) The other travelers in the van were a German guy and a couple from Connecticut - she originally from California, he from Italy. We had met the German guy, David, the day before at the waterfall. By way of introduction, he had told us that he was interested in animals, primarily seeing them and eating them. He recommended a warung on the main street of Tentena where you could try nice, spicy bat dishes. Um... er... yes, thanks for the tip, but... no. And I learned that this really isn't something you should tell people when first meeting them, because although I knew his name was David, thereafter I always thought of him as "The Bat Eater." The couple, Karlyn and Roberto, were very agreeable and we just so happened to see them later at our guest house as well. (By the way, I feel like we've met a lot of Americans and Canadians on this trip. More than usual. It's very weird.)

After arriving, we spent the day in Ampana, as well as the next, as the ferry we needed to take came only on certain days. There wasn't much to do, expect we did have a bit of an adventure going around town trying to run errands. The travel agent who worked at the place where we stayed was a very friendly guy who took us around town by motorbike. (He was a also bit of an amateur palmist - for lack of a better word - who - with our permission - would feel pressure points on our limbs, backs, heads, and tell us about things in our lives, sometimes with a surprising amount of accuracy. He told me I was a "middle" person, very well balanced in my life, and that I wouldn't get any major sicknesses for a long time because I was so inwardly calm and balanced. I could believe it. I'd like to, anyway.) Anyway, he and his buddy very kindly took us to the bank and post office. Of course, nothing ever works the way you expect it to. The bank gave us a crap exchange rate - for absolutely no good reason - and we had to leave awkwardly out the back door because they lock the front door when they're getting ready to close. Have I every mentioned that Indonesians may be the least logical people ever? This is not any sort of bigotry, it is simple fact. The post office was also closed very early because of Ramadhan. But, with our travel agent friend's help, we simply walked around to the back and bought stamps directly from the manager in the backroom office. When you're living in the land of the highly illogical, you need an inside connection to get out of the bank and into the post office.

On the way back, we ran into some shady-looking characters demonstrating at an intersection. This is when the violence in Israel and Gaza had broken out in a spectacularly bloody way. Indonesia, being a mostly Muslim country, supports Gaza and Palestine very strongly. (According to Yulius, from Tana Toraja, many Indonesians mistakenly believe that Israel is a Christian country, which goes to show that people everywhere can be ignorant about world affairs.) The young men on the street corner were wearing the black and white scarves that you typically see young, militant Middle Eastern men wearing (a Google search informs me that it might be a "keffiyeh.") They were shouting their protests and collecting money. One guy had his hood obscuring his face, and walked with hunched shoulders, filming everything on his phone. Of course I think they had a right to protest and raise money for their cause, but we didn't appreciate the look they had given themselves, as if they were trying to intimidate more than inspire. They weren't very scary - they were just a few guys in a small Indonesian town - but all the same, they were bit of an unsettling sight.

On Tuesday morning we got on our ferry to head for our guest house, Poya Lisa, which is on it's own little island in the Togean Islands group. It wasn't a tourist ferry: mostly it was other Indonesians heading to various islands and a lot of supplies. The gangplank up was a horribly steep, single plank which we somehow managed to climb up. Once the three hour journey began, the sun beat down on us, which felt nice at first, but after an hour or so, we found ourselves covering up in sarongs and just wishing we would arrive. We stopped at a sea-gypsy village (because apparently some of them are not totally nomadic anymore) and unloaded most of the supplies. Of course, none of the supplies were conveniently grouped together at the front of the boat, but scattered all around so that a long, tedious game of searching and delivering ensued for about half an hour while we continued to bake under the sun. (Remember what I said about the land of the illogical? That cultural relativity only goes so far when you're hot and sweating and just want to arrive at your destination.) But arrive we did on the gorgeous little island where Poya Lisa is found.

Poya Lisa has a kitchen and common area on a rocky island  only about three times bigger than the kitchen and dinning area itself. The 16? 17? or so bungalows were  connected by to it by a stretch of
sand that was just a narrow path during high tide. A handful of bungalows were on the beach and another handful were on a hill overlooking the sea for both beautiful sunrise and sunset views. Our bungalow had two beds, a squatter toilet and mandi (bucket shower), a couple of chairs on the porch and a regrettably not-so-comfortable hammock.

I really can't give a day by day account, because I don't remember. The general routine for the next five days consisted of eating breakfast around 8 AM, lounging around for a while, going snorkeling in the afternoon, coming back to wait around for dinner, enjoying a communal dinner with all the other Poya Lisa residents, and usually enjoying some card games or chatting for a few hours until we went to bed and repeated the whole thing again the next day. It was blissful and lazy and wonderful.

The Togean islands are stunningly beautiful and the waters have the most amazing light blue and turquoise hues. We went snorkeling on our first  full day and I was blown away by the clarity of the water. When we hopped of our little boat (propelled by an extremely loud and dodgy looking motor and driven by a wizened and very capable old man) I was shocked by how far down I could see. It just went on and on. I feel like I could see for 40 or 50 meters! I don't know if that's actually accurate, because it's hard to judge distance underwater (for me, anyway) but surely it was some of the

clearest water I've ever seen. We were swimming along a ledge where it went from shallow coral reef to a dramatic drop off and beams of sunlight pierced the cyan and cerulean water for what seemed like an impossibly long way down. I think I was just in awe the whole time. There were also a lot of fish and sea creatures to see. Maybe not as many as Raja Ampat, but then again, how do you beat Raja Ampat? You don't. But the clarity, the depth, the colour of the water, combined with all that we saw made it a very memorable experience. Diving is great, but sometimes I think snorkeling is just as good.

During that first-day snorkeling trip we got to know two Spanish girls who had come over on the boat with us, a Slovenian couple whom we liked a lot, and three British travelers. Two of them left the next day, so we never got to know them, but the other one, Max, had already been there for about a week and planned to stay another week, and he became one of our Poya Lisa friends.

The sense of community at Poya Lisa was great. I especially loved the communal dinners when everyone came together at the end of the day. The tables sat together in three groups and we usually self-segregated by language. There were so many French people there. Actually there are tons and tons and tons of French people everywhere in Southeast Asia. In Myanmar, ils sont partout, comme d'habitude. Nicole and I have a lot of evidence pointing to the distinct possibly that there aren't actually any French people left in France, because they are all in Southeast Asia! Anyway, the French table was always the largest. Next we had the Spanish table and the English + Others table, which were about equal in size. English + Others included American, English, Belgian, Slovenian, etc. Karlyn and Roberto showed up a day or two into our stay and we immediately started to hang out as a group. A little community formed quickly which included the two of us, Max, another English man named Tom,
Karlyn and Roberto, a Belgian girl named Analise, a Spanish man named Ceasar (proudly pronounced "Theasar,") the Slovenian couple, Mattaya and Tibor, and sometimes the Spanish girls (whose names I never really leared.) People came and went in the group, but we tended to stick together: during the day we snorkeled or hung out or tried - mostly unscessfully - to walk on the slack line someone had tied between two trees. At night we played cards and talked. Nicole and I taught Karlyn and Roberto "Crazy Eights" and our variation of it, "Crazy, Crazy Eights" in which the winner of a round gets to add a new rule. Max taught us a variation of Yatzee. The friendship among the group was easy and pleasant and very enjoyable. The other member of our little group was Sammy, the adorably awkward puppy whose owner was coming back for him in about a week. His feet were too big for his body and he was in a teething stage, which meant a lot of muzzle-grabbing:"No biting, Sammy!" Poor puppy didn't have any chew toys. We tried, with inconsistent success, to teach him fetch, so he would start to chew on sticks instead of us, or the tables.

The other great thing about Poya Lisa was the food. It was simple and delicious. As in Raja Ampat, we were back to a fairly strict fish-rice-vegetable diet. At breakfast we had a real treat: banana bread and fresh fruit every day! Lunch and dinner were always a variation on the same theme. The variety and tastiness was much better than in Raja Ampat, we got such nice things as tomato salad and the occasional vegetable curry. But once again, we were eating quite low-calorie meals. I began to really savour the available sauces: the saltiness of the soy sauce, the molasses-like sweetness of the kecap manis, the combination sweet and salty tang of the ketchup. The sauces became a very important part of each meal. Simple, good, tasty, communal meals. It all added to the simple, lazy, social pleasure that was Poya Lisa.

After nearly a week of lazing around and getting eight or more hours of sleep each night (how very luxurious!) we left on a public ferry headed back for Ampana. We killed time in Ampana before a crazy 24-hour travel blitz to our next destination, Labanbajo on the island of Flores. That, however, will be a different blog post.

Look at me! I actually finished up two blogs in as many days! Don't mind me if I congratulate myself and give myself a gold star. One more blog for Flores and Bali, and then we'll be in Myanmar. Any last things to say about Poya Lisa? Not really. I think I've covered the basics: terrific snorkelling, great company, lazy days, a nice relaxing time. Nicole and I have often said that we are spoiled when it comes to get beaches. We probably will never get such nice beach experiences once we're back in the US. It's ok, I suppose. We've got memories, pictures, and of course, blog posts.

SULAWESI (PART 3), IN WHICH WE SEE MORE GRAVES AND RIDE OUR MOTORBIKES TO A WATERFALL

So, I didn't make my goal of finishing up with Indonesia before leaving Myanmar. Because I'm writing this from a youth hostel in Bangkok. You think you're going to go back to the guesthouse and blog at the end of the day, as you should, and then you just feel so tired. And then you're lazy and check Facebook, and play Angry Birds for 10 minutes, and fall asleep. But you don't need to hear my excuses. Only thing to do is just continue on writing. And continue on I shall. I'm still not quite done with our time in Tana Toraja, in Central Sulawesi, so I'll just keep going from there. 

The last day with Yulius started with a drive to a village burial site with graves carved into a large rock face, similar to the day before, but on a larger scale. There were even more effigies here, whole rows of respected village higher-ups dressed in bright yellows and reds, as their clothing had recently been changed. We heard more about burial practices and shopped around for souvenirs a bit. Next, we headed to a "living tree,"

where, up until eight years ago, it was the practice to bury children who had not grown any teeth. At this age, if a child dies, Torajans believe the child needs to "return to mother"/"return to heaven" to grow more and be born again later. They are buried vertically in small slots on the side of a specially chosen tree, to aid their passage back to heaven. Eventually, the bark of the tree will grow over the coffin enclosure cut into it, and if the tree falls, it is left undisturbed. It seemed a bit eerie at first, but I think it's actually a very sweet and touching practice.

The last grave stop of the day was to a cave with "hanging graves." Graves are suspended and/or carefully placed in rock shelves of caves, the better to protect them from thieves. The coffins do fall down over time and the bones that spill out are placed in big piles with other skeletal odds and ends, giving the cave a look like a prehistoric burial site or a forensic goldmine of bones. I loved it. Yes, it was morbid and somber, but, treating the skulls and bones with proper respect in mind and heart (they were once living, breathing people after all,) it was fascinating to wander through that cave. Anthropology, both cultural and physical, is my secret passion. On the physical anthropology side of things, I love bones, skulls, forensics, paleoanthropology, all of it; I really enjoyed the chance to look at those bones, identify the arm bones from the leg bones, ponder the skulls, examine the sutures between skull plates (and thereby make a guess about age)... in general wonder about who I was looking at and what sort of life they had led. For my travel mates, it was, perhaps, a little too macabre; but for me it was really intriguing. 

After lunch that day, we embarked on another rice paddy trek on narrow, grassy paths by beautiful fields of green and very muddy water buffalo. Not too long into our trek it began to rain. We picked up the pace and got into an area covered by trees, but we were quickly getting soaked. With just a bit of time to spare, Yulius led us around to the back entrance of funeral arena. We ducked under the shelter of a wooden pavilion and right away a loud, lamenting soundtrack played through a loudspeaker system greeted us; that, and an overpowering smell of raw meat and blood. It was, after all, a typical funeral. 

Yulius knew the family holding the funeral. They were relatives from his father's side as it turned out. This funeral had a much different feel from the first one we visited. Whereas the first one was full of pomp, circumstance, ceremony, bright costumes, this one seemed rather low-key. I suspect the deceased was of a lower caste than the woman whose funeral we attended on our first day, and as a result, the whole thing was smaller in scale. As it was raining, many people had already left for the day, and things were winding down. A good number of family member still occupied a few pavilion sections and we were invited to have palm wine and buffalo satay with the family, which we humbly accepted. In the corner of the adjoining section, a huge haunch of buffalo leg sat by itself, reeking of rawness and laced with blood and fat. Blinders on, blinders on, just don't look over that way...  

I enjoyed that funeral because it was spontaneous and had a more down-to-earth feel than the first one. What I did not enjoy was the sight and smell of meat everywhere. It was so... gruesome. Hunks of raw meat passed hands casually, both inside and outside the cooking area; cuts of buffalo and pig sat idly on the ground or in the pavilion area; large pools of blood were all over the muddy ground. Somehow it was even more intense than the first funeral; I think it was the smells and stenches. This is where an understanding of what "cultural relativity" means is more than passing useful. 

After a visiting with our hosts for a respectful amount of time, and waiting for the rain to pass, we met up with our van again and headed back to the hotel. That was the end of our three days with Yulius, and those three days really contained some intense, fascinating, morbid, and truly memorable experiences. 

The next day  was our last in Tana Toraja. We rented three motorbikes and took off to explore Rantepao on our own. Our first stop was at the market where Matt bought a Torajan sword/machete thing. Wrapped in newspaper, Scott ended up carrying it strapped onto his backpack, which made for a comical sight. (That combined with the fact that he was just too tall for his motorbike; Southeast Asia is not designed for those well over 6 feet tall.) 

Matthew and Scott had been particularly looking forward to the motorbikes in Indonesia, not just riding them, but driving them, so they enjoyed themselves immensely. Nicole doesn't like driving motorbikes, so she was Matthew's passenger. I do like driving them, mostly because, well, they're fun, so I had one to myself. I only ride motorbikes on vacation and then I usually cruise along at a leisurely 30, 40 kmph (maybe 50 if I hit a nice, clear stretch of good road.) Matthew and Scott had other ideas, however. 50 kmph was usually our minimum and we sometimes pushed to 80. I had no choice but to keep up, and I'm glad to say I did so adeptly. (80 kmph on a highway is nothing of course, but on twisting and narrow, often potholed Indonesian roads, it's quite a different matter.) We didn't have much of a course, just took turns leading a winding exploration down different country roads. I had to have my visor down, otherwise the wind tended to try blow my helmet off, but I would have had it up to enjoy the beautiful green scenery we passed. I think the only way I handled the traffic, schoolchildren, and potholes along the roads was two years of having experienced Indonesian driving, not infrequently from the back of a motorbike myself. I'm not sure how Matthew and Scott handled it, but you know the sort of self-assuredness guys in their 20s have (which is why they're generally not allowed to rent a car.) But all in all, it was a ton of fun, and I'm glad we did it. (You know, it's funny, at home I don't like passing other cars when it means going into the oncoming traffic lane; I avoid it at all costs. In Indonesia on a motorbike, however, I blithely overtake other motorbikes, cars, vans and big, lumbering trucks and find myself following the philosophy of the road that has vehicles flowing like water into all available spaces in the current of traffic. When in Rome...)

We returned from our motorbike excursion around 2 PM, and left soon thereafter in the car we hired to take us north to the town of Tentena. The roads were slow-going and tumultuously mountainous. If it wasn't hairpin turn after hairpin turn, then it was giant, gaping potholes, uneven roads, or completely washed out segments. Apparently you can take a bus from Rantepao to Tentena, but I don't think I would dare. I'm really not sure how they do it. Not without delays and stomach-turning maneuvers, I think. 

We arrived at our hotel in Tentena at 1 AM, which wasn't so bad, all in all. (Part of travelling, whether it's in Indonesia, Myanmar, or anywhere, is spending hellishly long amounts of time sitting in vans and buses, watching the hours tick by as you slowly reach your destination. Freeways and interstates, such as we have in North America don't really exist, so even when you  feel like you're going along at a good pace, it's still takes a long time.)

On our last full day together as a group of four, we once again rented motorbikes and set off in search of a nearby waterfall and Poso Lake, which is one of the largest in Indonesia. We almost missed the turnoff for the watefall, but some locals, anticipating where we were going, flagged us down to point out the way. The waterfall turned out to be much more beautiful, and less crowded, than the one we visited near Makassar. There was no one else there save a handful of other tourists whom we had seen frequently in Tana Toraja and who had come to Tentena at the same time as us. The water was freezing cold, a shock to the system, but it also felt nice once you got acclimated to it. We found that we could duck under the waterfall itself, which was awesome. There wasn't much room, maybe a foot of depth behind the pummeling curtain of water, which made it feel cozy, cramped, and cold, all at the same time. And the rush of water was deafening of course! We hid out underneath the waterfall for a minute or two, enjoying this unexpectedly delightful discovery, and then ambled over other rocks and up to another section of the waterfall. It was an enchanting place and lots of fun, and felt all the more special because we were mostly alone there.

When we had had our fill of the waterfall, we tried an interesting experiment to see if we could fit all four of us on a motorbike. Turns out, we could! Of all things, Scott sat in the very front (still not sure where all of his limbs went,) Matthew drove, and Nicole and I sat on the back. We putted along at about, oh, 5/10 kmph down the road for a few meters and made an entire family turn their heads and bulge their eyes as we passed their house. Having successfully answered this pressing question of physics, we headed for the lake.

En route to Lake Poso I was Matthew's passenger (remember, only two motorbikes that day.) He was "coming in hot" (as he put it) with his philosophy of "if you treat it like a racecar, it is a racecar." Just as we were coming to the lake road, we hit a spot where we had to quickly slide between a pothole and pile of gravel, and... we just didn't make it. Down went the bike, with Matthew on top of it and me on top of him. I didn't really crush him though, because my hand had come out to brace the fall. We were both in a bit of shock: "Are you okay?" "Yes. Are you okay?" "Yes." And this being established we got the bike up and waited for Nicole and Scott. 

They later told me that they had never seen me looking quite so pissed off as when they pulled up and I asked Nicole if she wanted to take Matthew back (as I had been Scott's passenger beforehand.) Well, Matthew was definitely shaken up too, so we proceeded with more caution and made it to the lake with no problems. In the end, we were both fine: the most we suffered was a scrapped knee for me and a scrapped ankle for Matthew, for which I'm thankful. I still have a bit of a scar from that, about penny-sized. Just one more battle wound / parting present from Indonesia. (I'd like it known that I've never gotten into any accidents when driving myself or riding with other BBS teachers or other Indonesians; just 24-year old American males.) Still, at the end of the day, I get a story for my blog out of it and the chance to point to my knee and say, "That? Oh, that's from a motorbike accident," which, you know, is a tiny bit badass. (That, or just incredibly stupid; I'm not quite sure which.) The knee was only sore for about a week. It wouldn't have been a problem if it wasn't for having to use squatter toilets at our next guesthouse; my knee did not appreciate all that squatting! The other consequence is that I have now marked off all 20 items on our commemorative "I survived Jakarta / BBS" t-shirts which the expat staff made at the end of our two year contract. (We called it the EOC - End of Contract - Assessment.) Up to this point, I only had 19 out of 20. Now I get to check off  "fell off a motorbike" as well as "rode" and "drove."

Lake Poso was very nice, though not quite as charming as the waterfall. Still, nice for relaxing before heading back to the hotel. Rain clouds were gathering, so we knew we had to head back before the rain trapped us. We made it back in time and only got sort of wet.

So, that wraps up Tana Toraja and Tentena. At our next destination - the Togean Islands in the northern part of Sulawesi - we did almost nothing but laze around, so hopefully that will be a shorter blog.

As I said earlier, I'm in Bangkok at the moment. Nicole and I are spending two days with our new friend from Myanmar, Jenna, before departing northward for the Laos border. It was almost two years ago (October 2012) that I was in Thailand last, and this time it's... well, "same same but different." The sameness comes from the fact that we are once again spending two days in Bangkok before heading north to the town of Chiang Mai. The differences are... For one, I'm not a novice traveler anymore. October '12 seems like an age ago! Second of all, Chiang Mai is not the final destination this time, but just a stop on our way to northern Laos. Third, whereas last time we rushed between the major sights during our two days, this time we're taking it easy and seeing Bangkok from quite a different perspective. Nicole, Jenna and I went to the mall today. We wanted to exchange money and Nicole and Jenna were in pursuit of new notebooks. I ended up buying new Keens (sports sandals) because my old ones were truly worn out after 2 1/2 years (they got a superglue repair job at Inle Lake.) We bought gourmet popcorn and perused the other gourmet specialties. And now I'm relaxing with a beer and blogging. No rushing, no sightseeing, no particularly touristy activities. Walking around the mall today made me feel like I was having regular old weekend in Jakarta. I felt just like an expat again and not a backpacker. It was nice, actually. 

Tomorrow it's off to Chiang Mai, and hopefully across the Laos border into Huay Xai. That leaves me with quite a bit more blogging to do... But, with these lovely desktop computers with real keyboards at the hostel, perhaps I can even cover Togean Islands tomorrow. (Maybe... don't hold me to any promises!) 

SULAWESI (PART 2), IN WHICH WE DRINK PALM WINE FROM A BAMBOO SHOOT AND TRAMP THROUGH RICE PADDIES

We saw a lot during our first day in Tana Toraja, but it was just the beginning really. Day two with Yulius involved a trip to the local buffalo market first thing in the morning. We wandered around vendors vending typical market things: vegetables, chilies, eggs, rice in three different colours, toys, pens, purses, soap, etc. There was also the famous Torajan coffee for sale. They would grind the beans in front of you and then seal the plastic bag with a candle flame. (Cool!) We also stopped at a vendor with big, white plastic containers. These were different varieties of palm wine, which we had sampled for the first time the night before, with our traditional meal. We got to try samples poured out into thimble-sized cups. The Torajan palm wine isn't too strong, because it's only harvested from the trees and not distilled at all. (On a side note, I have it reliably from friends that when it is distilled, using dodgy-looking stills on the side of the road, such as they have in Flores, it can be very strong indeed.) We picked the one we liked best and they served it to us... in a bamboo shoot! The length of bamboo was about two feet tall and we all took turns carrying it and drinking from it. (Yes, at 10 in the morning. No judgement please!) We also all took turns clumsily spilling the palm wine on ourselves when the bamboo was almost empty. And not because we were feeling the effects of it, but because it's very awkward to drink out of an almost empty two-foot tall bamboo shoot. It's like when you're trying to finish a glass of something and all the ice falls on your nose.

The buffalo were on display in a small muddy field on the edge of the market. Torajan buffalo are always led by and kept on their nose rings, and they stood about for all to see. (They are kept on the nose rings to strengthen their necks for the buffalo fights at the funerals.) Albino buffaloes are especially prized, as are ones with long tails, for no other reason than the long tail symbolises longevity. And just to be clear, these buffaloes are being sold and bought for funerary purposes only. They don't work in the fields or anything, they're just cared for over the years until it comes their time to aid someone's great auntie into the afterlife. And how much will such a magnificent beast cost you? Conservatively, about 1,500 dollars. And if you're a big spender and need something extra special for the funeral you're attending, you can pay as much as 100,000 dollars. Yes, that is in USD. (At least that's what we heard from Yulius. He spoke very good English, so I don't think he misspoke, but still, it's such an awful lot of money. Our 2012 guidebook lists 80 million rupiah, or about 8,000 dollars, for a top-tier buffalo. But any way you cut it, 1,500 or 8,000 or 100,000 that's a significant chunk of cash.) 

On our way out of the market we also saw pigs for sale, some of them being tied up in the bamboo "frames." Even saw one, en frame, carried away on the back of a motorbike. Still just such a strange sight. We ended up leaving the bamboo palm wine flask/glass by the side of the road (because really, what are you supposed to do with it?) and drove off into the village-dotted hillside in search of adventure... or lunch.

First, we stopped to see some people shelling/shucking rice on the side of the road (not quite sure what word applies when it comes to rice.) A little boy there followed us for a while as we walked along. He was very cute, and there's a great picture of him trailing 6-foot-6 Scott and looking up in wonderment. We also stopped a Torajan burial rock. We were quite a ways from Rantepao by this time, just making our way up steep hills, around rice paddies, and though very small villages. The burial rock sort of came out of nowhere. The huge rock in question had spaces for coffins carved out of the rock - no easy feat, and in fact one that takes years. The hollows with the coffins are covered with small, square wooden doors, and in the case of some of the older or more prestigious graves, there are wooden effigies in the likeness of the deceased within standing vigil from small niches by the grave doors. Beside the huge burial rock was another little graveyard of sorts: this one of coffin-carrying litters.

(There are probably better words in the Torajan language that describe exactly the things we saw, but A: I don't know them, and B: neither do you.) We were informed by Yulius that on the way from a funeral to the burial spot, the coffin bearers will play with the coffin, having fun, goofing off, even rough-housing a bit. This seems like bizarre behaviour from a people who so carefully and devotedly attend to their dead, but the thought goes that it is the last chance for the deceased to have fun with their family.

We ate lunch at a restaurant with good food and a better view out over the sloping hills of rice paddies. After lunch we set out to do some trekking through the rice paddies. We went slowly because the path was narrow and slippery in parts, but overall it was a gentle trek. (Yulius seemed to think I needed help though because I slipped once. Well, that's what happens when it's slippery. He began to tell me where to put my feet and give me a hand down; later he did the same to Matthew. I appreciated the thoughtfulness, but sometimes I don't like being given a hand because it makes me less in control of my own balance.) It was a beautiful trek however, and there was frequent stopping for picture taking. Nicole and I both love the colour of vibrant rice paddies in the sunlight. It's called "rice-paddy-green" which is a very close cousin of "the-underside-of-leaves-when-you're-walking-through-a-deciduous-woods-on-a-sunny-day-green." We ended up meandering through some small villages and our way to the road. There were children around calling out "Bom bom!" which confused me until I figured they meant, "Bon bon!" or "Candy!" It's typical for tourists to give kids candy, and although it's a sweet gesture, I don't know how I feel about it because first of all, it's bad for the kids' teeth, and second, it teaches them to expect candy from every tourist, as if it's their right to be given candy all the time. We didn't have any "bon-bons" so we gave away a couple pens instead.

Yulius explained more about the Torajan culture as we went. He explained about how the dead are kept at home (and asked if we wanted to see a mummy, to which we politely declined) and told us again how rice is kept in the upper stories of the traditional Torajan buildings, accessed by a bamboo ladder with notches for foot holds. Both larger homes and smaller store buildings are passed down through the generations. Eventually we came out onto the main road, walked a while, and were then picked up by our driver again.

When we got back to town, it was decided that Matthew and Scott should experience their first Indonesian massage. The only masseuse in town was a fellow by the name of "Denis." Typically Denis comes to your hotel room to do the massage, but that just seemed creepy (right?) so we opted to go to him instead. They just had room for all four of us, but Nicole had to have her massage on someone's bed, which they had moved over. Midway through the massage she heard a crunching noise and opened an eye to see some kid - probably the usual occupant of the bed - eating a snack and staring down at her. The massage turned out to be a communal experience because they didn't have separate rooms, just an area of the family's living area curtained off. And for some weird reason, Scott got a female masseuse and I was stuck with Denis himself. It was an interesting experience, not quite like what you get in Jakarta, but one we could laugh about afterwards. Poor Matthew and Scott had no idea how it was supposed to work. Scott said he kept looking over at Matthew, who had started a few minutes before him to see what was going to happen next. 

That night we were invited to a pork barbecue to celebrate the national election, which was that very day. Yulius was a very enthusiastic supporter of choice #2 on the ballot, Joko Widowo (better known as Jokowi.) I got a picture of him holding up his left hand with the inked pinky finger that showed he voted, while he holds up a number two with his right hand. Even though I saw many campaign posters for both candidates (Prabowo and Jokowi) I only ever heard people give their verbal support for Jokowi. In Jakarta he was the popular candidate as well. (As it turned out, the election was very close so they had a recount. In the end, Jokowi ended up the victor.) The barbecue was delicious by the way. Fatty pork and palm wine was found in abundance. A great day followed by a great night!

SULAWESI (PART 1), IN WHICH WE JOIN A TORAJAN FUNERAL PROCESSION

We are stranded for at least the afternoon, maybe the whole evening because of the downpour, so I am forced to stop an finally get around to blogging. You see, the trouble is I am a lazy blogger who only writes when so inclined, or, when I'm stuck at a guesthouse with no place to go, as it were.

Nicole and I are in Myanmar now; it's our third day here and here in the region around Yangon it's rainy season. It's rained all three days we've been here so far. As the guy from the guesthouse who rode with us on the truck said, ever so matter-of-factly, "It's raining cats and dogs." Earlier in the week, he said, it was raining "cats and pigs," which is apparently even worse. But now we're stuck and there's no hope of getting to see the Golden Rock of Mt Kyaiktiyo. Maybe if we're very lucky, we'll get to go tomorrow. But now is a good time to begin the game of catch-up with my blogging. Being strictly chronological, I am still in Indonesia.

So... Where were we? Ah yes: After a few day on Pulau Seram, we returned to Ambon for a night and then flew to Makassar, the capital of Sulawesi. The flight wasn't anything special but as we were disembarking, the pilot, who was standing at the exit, caught my eye. He was my neighbour in Jakarta! I don't know his name, but he lived (or lives, actually) in my same tower in my apartment. I've barely talked to him beyond the occasional "Hello," but we've shared many an elevator ride together. I also know he has an Indonesian girlfriend, who I have chatted with several times before. He recognized me right away as I walked past, and there was a moment of surprise and a quick greeting as I went past. I've said before how most of the expats in West Jakarta seem to be teachers or pilots; guess it was only a matter of time before someone I knew ended being the pilot for one of my budget flights.

There wasn't much to see or do in Makassar. The day we arrived, we hired a car to take us to see some cave paintings and a waterfall, which was neat, if a little lackluster. Mostly it was just hot. I don't know how the Muslims endure not drinking all day during Ramadhan. I really, truly don't think I could do it. My favourite part of our stay in Makassar was walking along a long public seafront area. It was getting to be evening and people were coming out in droves to enjoy the night and get ready to break their fasts. The most popular item to have on hand seemed to be some sort of jelly drink in a plastic cup. (Think of juice with small jello cubes floating inside.) There was a large and beautiful mosque sitting over the water, modeled in a modern style. As soon as the call came out across the loudspeakers, everyone unlidded their jelly drinks, waters, juices and downed them within moments. There was a fairly festive atmosphere and people seemed to be enjoying themselves. (There was also an unending line of fried banana stands along the way. I mean at least a hundred carbon copies of the exact same sort of stand! The idea of branching out and selling something unique, say pineapple, is apparently just not done. We joked about how the sellers must just hope a person gets tired of walking in front their particular stand. Do they ever lend each other bananas? What would happen if you did open a pineapple stand? Questions without answers...)

As interesting as it was to see everyone break their fast at sundown, the downside to it being Ramadhan was that the city was largely shut down and it was difficult to find food. Beer, even at a convenience store, was not a possibility. The next day (after a visit to Fort Rotterdam, in which we spent more time playing cards in front of the museum instead of touring,) we ate lunch indoors in a stuffy restaurant with its windows and blinds closed because they didn't want to flaunt the food when most people were fasting. I wasn't much hungry anyway. We had been on a mission to find pineapple (and not fried bananas, damn it!) the night before, but only found one at a grocery shop. Well, it was a bit off, and the next morning so was my stomach. We were all ill to varying degrees, Nicole and I getting the worst of it.

Earlier that day Nicole and I had renewed our 30-day visas at the Makassar immigration office. Neither of us were feeling well, but Nicole was feeling worse just then so she left me to do the "negotiations". The so-called "song and dance" for which she did not have the patience at the moment. I was so proud of the subtlety and dexterity with which I navigated my first bribe: "I'm sorry miss, the visa takes three days to process." "Ah, no. You see we must get it today. Must. What is the price for express processing?" "I don't know miss. I am new and I don't want any trouble, but I will ask my boss..." Some moments later... "For express is 500,000." $50 more or less. So then our passports disappeared behind closed doors for some 45 minutes. When I gently inquired as to their status, the clerk went back to check and produced them a few minutes later. They don't need three days to process them. They don't even need thirty minutes. After you give them your information and fill out a form, they put the appropriate sticker on a page, stamp it and sign it. It's a process of about, oh, 10 seconds. Maybe 20 if you had to find a new package of visa stickers.

On the way back from the immigration office, I started to feel very poorly as well. I managed to hold it together until we got out of the taxi, and then had the lovely experience of vomiting - twice - onto a grassy curb between street and shop. Was it the pineapple? Was it the runny egg I made myself eat with the free breakfast that morning? Probably both. At least Matt and Scott didn't get too sick, maybe just a bit of an upset stomach. It's kind of inevitable at some point when you're travelling Southeast Asia.

That night we took the night bus to Rantepao, the biggest town in the Tana Toraja area, and arrived about 5 AM the next morning. We checked into Hotel Pison, ate breakfast, and promptly fell asleep for a much needed one-hour nap. Nicole had already contacted someone about being our guide in Tana Toraja, but since we had not confirmed, he was already with someone else. He did, however, set us up with another guide, Yulius, who turned out to be a great guide. After the nap, we were ready to go - no point in wasting a morning - and set out right away to see one of the famous/infamous Torajan funerals.

We had a minivan, a driver, and Yulius. Not too far outside of town, we turned off on a side street and went up and down a few country roads before stopping. Like any big gathering, there were cars and trucks parked all along the road, so you knew it was going to be a big to-do. "Big to-do" isn't even remotely getting close to describing just how big of an affair this funeral was. First, perhaps, a bit of background knowledge.

Our Lonely Planet guide says that for the Torajans, "life revolves around death," and we found this out to be absolutely true. Torajans save all their lives for their funeral rites to properly send their loved ones to the afterlife. Of course people die all the time, and families will have private, small-scale ceremonies at the actual time of death, but that's really just the beginning. Bodies are preserved with chemicals and kept at home. In the case of a husband or wife, the deceased is placed into the couple's bed and remains there until it's time for the big funeral. For the case of another family member, the body might be kept in the common area. The person is not referred to as "dead," but "getting sick." While the family member is "getting sick," the extended family is contacted and plans are made to return to Toraja in the summer months. There are funerals all year long, but July and August are known as the funeral season. The big funeral involves the extended family, a huge arena about the size of a football field, hundreds of buffalo and pig slaughters, tons of food, processions, and eventually a splendid burial. Funerals usually last about 5 days. The more important the person was in the community, the bigger, more expensive, and more grand the funeral is likely to be.

As we made our way up the hill to the funeral area I remember seeing a family making their way down. The look of horror on the young daughter's eyes made us wonder what exactly we were going to find. At the entrance our eyes got wide as saucers, and stayed that way. 

The first thing we noticed was the livestock. Buffalo were being lead into the funeral arena by their nose rings and pigs were tied hand and foot (or hoof and hoof?) to bamboo frames and left lying on the ground to be carried in later. Donors' names were often spray-painted onto the animals' sides. 

Seeing the pigs tied up disturbed me a lot; obviously they didn't like it and they squealed a lot. The noises they make are just so unnerving: screams, grunts, and squeals of distress. It's a sound of panic and not of pain, but it still cut through me and bothered me at my core. They shelter the pigs from the sun, laying big leaves over them, and making sure they're okay, but they will still occasionally thrash and kick and foam at the mouth. And this was just at the entrance. I knew that if I didn't steal myself, I wouldn't be able to even enter the rest of the funeral.

Yulius got us a place in the section of the pavilion housing the second son of the deceased lady and his extended family. Tradition dictates that guests bring a gift, usually sugar or cigarettes, to the family. We had already stopped en route for Yulius to pick up a gift and he now handed me a carton of cigarettes to hand to the family head. We removed our shoes and climbed up into the section of raised pavilion. We sat on the floor mats with everyone else and were offered some snacks and a very earthy tasting coffee while we did some introductions. It felt weird to be there. Afterall, we were basically crashing someone's funeral. But while the tone was serious, it wasn't at all dour or sad, it was more of a celebration. The younger and better English-speaking generation asked us questions and introduced themselves. I slightly bowed my head and handed our gift over to the family elder, the second son, humbly saying, "Here are some cigarettes for your family." I reflected that I had never said, nor would probably ever say again, that particular sentence.

Yulius informed us that we were invited to join the family in their procession if we would also join them to eat afterwards. We looked at each other, blinked a bit, and slowly said, "Uh... yes..." Because how often do you get to join a Torajan funeral procession? It's along the lines of what you call a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, so, we had to say yes. The different families of the deceased lady's children took turns throughout the day making a procession across the arena to sit in a small, central pavilion for a while. The men and women stood in separate lines and we waited for a long time while a man on a bullhorn announced the animal sacrifices brought by each member of the family. Each child, we were told, would be expected to bring buffalo, and for every buffalo, four pigs. Since the lady had eleven children, this amounted to about 70 buffalo and close to 300 pigs... from the immediate family alone... for one lady's funeral. 

Eventually we made our way to the pavilion where the grandchildren, dressed fancily in traditional clothing (and makeup for the girls) greeted us. The men were offered cigars and cigarettes. The young women were offered candies and the older women took betelnut. On heading back to the family's own area we got separated from Matthew and Scott but just followed our hosts.

There was a lot of butchering going on at this point. It was the third day of the funeral and that meant pig butchering. The buffalo fighting and sacrifices would come later in the week. I saw a lot of graphic images, such as the charred bodies of the pigs after they had been flamed to remove the hair, blood spilling out of such a charred pig as it was set on the ground for butchering, and the uncoordinated hacking with machetes on the ground that passed for butchering (can't remember if they actually had a tarp down or not.) These sights were very gruesome and bloody, and yet, they didn't bother me too much. Hearing the pigs squeal in distress was far worse and sickening for me than seeing the aftermath of the killing and butchering. It made me reflect that death doesn't bother me so much as suffering. And even so, the pigs didn't suffer too much. The pigs and buffalo are respected for their roles in the funeral and so they're treated well in life. At the funeral, of course they're distressed because they're tied up, but they are still kept in shade throughout the day. And the killing itself is quick. I think. (Didn't actually care to see it for myself.) It also made me think about the animals whose lives end at factory farms who probably suffer a lot more. That's not cool. So you see now why I was quiet and pensive and my eyes were wide as saucers.

We ate a lunch of pork, rice and other dishes, self served into a brown paper packet. While we were sitting and eating with our adoptive family, someone came up to our section and handed the family elder a large pig haunch, still raw and bloody, which he causally set beside him. It was, overall, a fascinating, eye-opening, somewhat bizarre, and quite bloody experience.

We stayed for several hours, but eventually Yulius lead the way out and we went back down the hill with partly dazed expressions much like, What did we just see? 

For the rest of that day we toured some traditional houses and then returned for a Torajan meal. We had chicken and pork, each cooked (steamed maybe?) in a bamboo shoot which then gets shaken out onto a platter at your table, along with rice and veggies (because you haven't eaten unless you've had rice). It was delicious, leading Nicole and me to decree Torajan food to be some of, if not the best, food we've had in Indonesia. (A thought that was confirmed in the next days.)

That was the first of our three days with Yulius, but I'll leave off there, because if I don't post something soon, I might just never get around to posting anything at all. As always, more to follow.